It is important to understand the clothing construction processes in order to come up with garments that are well fitting.
In this topic we shall cover the following:
Collars
Cuffs
Set- in sleeves
Facing and Interfacing
Construction of a shirt
Collars
Collars are features that are fitted at the neckline to add style and appeal to the garment.
There are many types of collars which include:
Attaching the Collar
Collars are attached using the following methods:
- Self-neatening
- Using a facing
- Using a cross-way strip
In this topic, we shall cover two methods:
Self neatening method
Using a cross-way strip
Attaching the shirt collar using the self neatening method
With the raw edges level, fitting lines, centre back and notches matching, place the right side of under collar on the right side of garment leaving the upper collar free, pin and tack along the fitting line
Remove the pins and machine along the tacking
Remove the tacking, trim the seam allowance to 6mm and snip
Trim the seam allowance of the upper collar to 1cm. fold along the fitting line to the wrong side
Pin and tack ensuring the raw edges are enclosed
Remove the pins and hem in position
Remove the tacking and press
Attaching a peter pan collar using the cross-way strip
Sleeves
A sleeve is a part of a garment that is attached at the armhole and covers all or part of the arm.
Sleeves can either be set-in or cut as part of the garment.
In this topic, we shall only cover the set-in sleeves.
Types of sleeves
Preparation of a set-in sleeve
The following is a pattern of a sleeve showing the pattern markings:
The procedure of preparing a set-in sleeve
Setting in a sleeve
When setting in a sleeve, ensure the left sleeve is attached to the left armhole while the right sleeve is attached to the right armhole.
The following is the procedure of setting in a sleeve.
Cuffs
A cuff is a method of finishing the lower edge of a sleeve.
There are two main types of cuffs:
Shaped
Straight
See also:
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